up:: Systems MOC
owner:: @Niko

Pool Specs

• Dimensions: 18' × 36' rectangular, 3.5' shallow → 10–10.5' deep end
• Volume: ~30,000 gallons (working estimate; Pool Math app refines via slope geometry)
• Surface: plaster — old, chipped in multiple places (#Plaster Condition)
• Filter: sand
• Sanitizer: traditional chlorine (liquid recommended; see #Future Improvements)
• Algae/mineral assist (committed system): Pool RX chelated-copper cartridge — our chosen mineral system (owner decision 260811; a solar copper/silver ionizer, e.g. Sun Shock, was evaluated and rejected — Pool RX's chelation means lower staining risk on our chipped plaster). Current cartridge installed 260514, 6-month cycle through ~261114; renew with booster at cycle end. See #Pool RX — Current Cycle.
• Location: Reno NV — high desert (high UV, hard source water, freeze winters)

Goals

• Sanitized water (FC within target band per CYA)
• No algae bloom
• Slow further plaster degradation
• Swimmable Memorial → Labor Day; opened/closed bookending the freeze window

Chemistry — Target Ranges

Plaster pool, traditional chlorine, Reno climate:

FC depends on CYA

Below FC minimum → algae growth risk. Above target → wasteful but harmless.

Pool Math app (TFP) automates this math: input current readings → app calculates exact chemical doses for our 30k-gal volume. Free on iOS + Android. Strongly recommended — replaces manual conversion tables.

Testing Protocol

Test kit: 5-reagent kit covering FC + pH + TA + CH + CYA ✓ all bases covered.

Frequency:

Procedure:

1. Sample mid-pool at ~elbow depth (not from skimmer return)
2. Test FC + pH first (fastest, most actionable)
3. TA + CH (titration drops — count to color change)
4. CYA (fill tube to mark when black dot just disappears)
5. Log all readings on whiteboard
6. Use Pool Math app to compute any adjustments

Routine Maintenance Schedule

Tracking on whiteboard in pool shed

• Brush: entire pool weekly with metal brush, focus around plaster chips
• Skim: debris daily during summer use
• Test: FC + pH every 2–3 days summer; full panel weekly (Sundays)
• Backwash: by PSI, not calendar — when gauge reads 8–10 PSI over clean baseline (#Backwash Procedure)
• Fill Water: maintain level above tile; top off against evaporation

Whiteboard Tracking Columns

ToDo:: Insert photo of whiteboard

• Date
• Who
• FC / pH / TA / CH / CYA
• Chems added (type + amount)
• Backwash? (Y/N + PSI before/after)

Backwash Procedure

Trigger: filter PSI reads 8–10 PSI over clean baseline. Record baseline after every backwash, sand change, or filter open.

1. Pump OFF - VERY IMPORTANT!
2. Adjust valve from default — "Filter" to "Backwash"
   1. 
3. Pump ON
4. Watch backwash discharge outside pool shed. Wait until water becomes clearish (~1–2 min)
   1. 
5. Pump OFF
6. Adjust valve to "Rinse"
   1. 
7. Pump ON
8. Wait 30 seconds for sand to settle
9. Pump OFF
10. Adjust valve back to "Filter"
    1. 
11. Record new clean PSI on whiteboard

Chemical Dosing — Liquid Chlorine

Standard 10–12.5% sodium hypochlorite from pool store. Avoid tabs — each tab adds CYA, and we'll overshoot CYA fast over a Reno summer.

For 30,000-gal pool: 1 gallon of 10% liquid chlorine raises FC by ~3 ppm.

Add at deep end with pump running. Wait 30 min before re-testing.

Use Pool Math app for all other dosing (pH adjusters, TA increase, CYA addition, CH increase) — it does the math against our exact volume.

Supplies on Hand

Pool chemicals in stock + where to reorder each — update when you buy or run low. Informs dosing (what we can reach for), rebuy timing, and sourcing. ✓ = confirmed source · italic = needs owner confirmation.

Plaster Condition

Old plaster, chipped in multiple places. Strategy:

• Brush vigorously around chips weekly (metal brush)
• Patch major chips that expose substrate with white pool plaster patch kit (~$30) before water wicks behind and cracks spread
• Maintain CH ≥ 250 ppm — prevents further calcium leaching from remaining plaster
• Plan for resurface within 1–3 years (#Future Improvements)

ToDo:: Survey chip locations; photograph for resurface quote bid documentation
ToDo:: Stockpile pool plaster patch kits for spot repairs between now and resurface

Pool RX — Current Cycle

Installed: 260514 (black/white cartridge, sized for 30k-gal pool)
Cycle end: ~261114 (6 months)
Status: active

Pool RX is a chelated copper sulfate mineral cartridge — copper ions inhibit algae. Same active-ingredient family as Simple Scoop and similar all-in-one products. Effective at reducing algae demand on chlorine but introduces a copper-staining risk that's heightened on chipped plaster (more substrate to bind blue-green/black staining if pH drifts above ~7.8).

Management during this cycle (now → 261114)

• Run the cartridge through its lifecycle — don't discontinue mid-cycle (wasteful + you've already paid for it)
• pH discipline is tighter: hold pH 7.6–7.8 strictly. Copper precipitates and stains above 7.8. Test pH every 2–3 days minimum during summer.
• Maintain CH ≥ 250 ppm — same as plaster strategy, also helps prevent copper precipitation
• Watch for staining: blue-green tint on plaster or fixtures = copper drop-out. Catch early (acid washing patches is easier than full).
• Standard chlorine + CYA still required — Pool RX is NOT a sanitizer. It only reduces algae demand on chlorine; you still need FC in target band.

Cycle renewal — 261114 (booster)

Committed: Pool RX is our chosen mineral system (owner decision 260811). Default action at the 6-month mark is to add the Booster and continue — not discontinue. (Pool RX remains a mineral assist, not a sanitizer; standard chlorine + CYA management still runs alongside it — see above.)

Safety-valve exceptions — discontinue this cycle instead of renewing only if:

• Visible copper staining appears (blue-green tint on plaster/fixtures) — stop and let copper draw down via dilution + filter capture; staining risk is elevated on our chipped plaster
• Resurface scheduled within ~12 months — minimize copper in the water before the drain

Absent either, add the booster.

ToDo:: 261114 — add Pool RX booster (default renewal); check for copper staining + resurface timing first

Algae Bloom → SLAM (the recurring fix)

When the water greens / algae blooms it's almost always because FC dropped to ~0. Run a SLAM (Shock Level And Maintain — TFP method), not tabs:

1. Test FC, pH, CYA — confirm the crash.
2. Bring pH to 7.2–7.5 first (chlorine works faster); keep ≤7.8 for Pool RX copper.
3. Raise FC to SLAM level = ~40% of CYA, with liquid chlorine (never tabs). At CYA 38 → target ~15 ppm; ~30k gal, 1 gal 10% liquid ≈ +3 ppm, so ~5 gal from zero. Pump running, add at the deep end.
4. Brush every surface (walls, floor, steps, behind fittings) — dislodges algae so chlorine reaches it. Brush daily through the SLAM.
5. Run the pump 24/7. Backwash/clean the filter as PSI climbs — dead algae loads it fast (#Backwash Procedure).
6. Re-test + re-dose FC back to ~15 several times a day — hold it, don't let it sag.
7. Vacuum settled dead algae (to waste if heavy).
8. Done only when all three pass: water crystal-clear · OCLT (overnight FC loss) <1 ppm · zero visible algae. Then let FC drift back to the normal band.

Use the Pool Math app for exact doses. ⚠ Pool RX cartridge is in — hold pH 7.6–7.8 after the SLAM to avoid copper staining on the chipped plaster.

Test Log

260819 — algae bloom, FC crashed → SLAM

Leslie's test (Sadie M., 08/19 17:45; quality score 70%, ↑ from 60% on 05/27):

• FC crashed to ~0 (target ~4–5 @ CYA 38) → green water + algae on walls/floor. Root cause = sanitizer ran out.
• TA 72 is fine by our targets (60–80 for liquid chlorine) — ignore Leslie's "low vs 80–120," their band assumes tabs. CH 188 is genuinely low → raise toward ≥250 (plaster protection + reduces Pool RX copper precip) after the SLAM.
• Action → SLAM (above): hold FC ~15 with liquid chlorine, brush, 24/7 pump, filter, vacuum; then raise CH.
• ⚠ Ignore Leslie's tab/Algae-Control plan — tabs add CYA and creep it up over a Reno summer; our method is liquid chlorine + Pool RX (see #Chemical Dosing — Liquid Chlorine).
• 260819 field actions (owner): system was down → backwashed, then added 5 lb baking soda + 3 bags shock. Read against our method: 3 bags ≈ +3 ppm FC (a start, not a full SLAM ~15) — re-test in 30–60 min and top up with liquid chlorine to hold ~15 until clear + OCLT passes. If the shock was cal-hypo it also nudged the low CH upward (good). Baking soda was unnecessary — TA 72 was already in our 60–80 band; 5 lb pushes it to low-80s and pH up, so watch pH stays ≤7.8 (Pool RX copper). Confirm the pump runs 24/7 — SLAM fails without circulation.
• 260820 AM update (owner): +2 more bags shock (≈5 total), pump running 24/7, brushed — water already pretty clear. SLAM is working. ⚠ Not done yet — hold FC up and keep dosing until all three pass: crystal-clear + OCLT <1 ppm overnight + zero visible algae. Clearing water often still holds live algae that rebounds in 2–3 days if FC sags. Keep brushing daily; backwash as filter PSI climbs. Then let FC drift to normal (~5) and raise CH ≥250.
• Next test target: 08/27/26.

Seasonal Schedule

Spring — Pool Opening

• Designate Pool Masters for the season
• Reset whiteboard
• Remove winter cover, hose down, dry, fold
• Reconnect equipment (pump, filter, returns, skimmer plug removal)
• Refill water to mid-skimmer
• Brush walls + floor vigorously
• Run pump 24h
• Test full panel
• Balance chemistry per targets above
• SLAM if algae present — hold FC at "shock" level per CYA (~40% of CYA) until OCLT passes (overnight chlorine loss test: <1 ppm FC drop overnight at full darkness)
• Record clean PSI baseline post-backwash

Pool RX note: see #Pool RX — Current Cycle section below for current cycle status and decision points.

Summer

• Have fun in the pool 🌞
• Testing rhythm above (FC + pH every 2–3 days, full panel weekly Sundays)
• Pump 8–12 hrs/day during peak heat for circulation
• Top off water against evaporation (also dilutes mineral creep from hard tap water)

Fall — Pool Closing / Winterization

Timing: mid-October to early November, before sustained freezing temps. Reno typically hits first hard freeze early-to-mid November.

• Lower water to mid-skimmer (or 1" below skimmer mouth)
• Blow out all plumbing lines (skimmer line, returns, main drain) — use shop vac or air compressor
• Install rubber expansion plugs in return and skimmer ports
• Drain pump, sand filter, heater (open drain plugs; filter MPV to "winterize" position if equipped)
• Drain sand filter housing
• Skimmer gizmo / freeze bottle in skimmer to absorb expansion
• Add winterizing shock + chemistry: bring FC to upper target, balance pH/TA, ensure CH and CYA are within range
• Secure winter cover

Winter

• Minimize leaves and debris accumulation on cover
• Inspect cover after major storms
• Do NOT remove cover or run equipment until spring opening

Pool Masters

Current: @Ryan, @Kevin?

ToDo:: Ask Flock who wants to be a Pool Master for next season
Q:: What is the reward for being a Pool Master?

Responsibilities:

• Testing per schedule above
• Chemical additions per Pool Math app calculations
• Backwash when PSI threshold hit
• Brush + skim
• Whiteboard updates
• Flagging plaster chip changes for the resurface tracker

Future Improvements

Pathways to simplify maintenance, ordered by investment level. Decision dependent on plaster resurface timing — automation pairs better with fresh plaster surface.

Option 1 — Manual + Pool Math app (current, dialed in)

• Cost: $0 (kit + free app already in place)
• Effort: 5 min testing 2x/week summer + manual chemical adds
• Pros: no equipment risk, works with chipped plaster
• Cons: still requires Pool Master attention

Option 2 — Stenner / Liquidator peristaltic pump (auto-dose liquid chlorine)

• Cost: ~$250–400 setup + monthly liquid chlorine (~$30/mo)
• Effort: refill chlorine tank monthly + testing
• Pros: removes "did anyone add chlorine?" question; cheap; robust; no copper or CYA buildup
• Cons: still need to manage pH/TA/CH/CYA manually; tank refill chore

Option 3 — Saltwater chlorine generator (SWG)

• Cost: $1,500–3,000 install + ~$700 cell every 5–7 yrs + initial salt (~$200)
• Effort: weekly testing only; system makes chlorine from salt
• Pros: huge effort reduction; gentler on skin/eyes
• Cons: may accelerate failing plaster if chemistry drifts; pair with resurface, not before

Option 4 — Full automation (ORP/pH controller + auto-chlorinator)

• Cost: $1,500–3,500
• Effort: monitor sensors; sensors drift, need recalibration
• Pros: nearly hands-off
• Cons: complex; sensors need maintenance themselves; overkill for an old pool pre-resurface

Plaster Resurfacing

Realistic horizon: 1–3 years.

Budget estimate (30k-gal pool, Reno area):

• White plaster (basic): ~$5,000–7,000
• Quartz finish (mid-tier): ~$7,000–10,000
• Pebble finish (premium, most durable): ~$9,000–14,000

Reno contractor leads — call for quotes:

Process:

1. Schedule 2–3 site visits for quotes
2. Verify each contractor's NV contractor license + insurance via NV State Contractors Board: nscb.nv.gov
3. Ask each for: surface choice (white plaster vs quartz vs pebble), prep extent (full chip-out vs spot patch), warranty (typically 2–5 yrs), startup chemistry included
4. Decide finish type — cost vs durability tradeoff
5. Schedule for off-season (late fall after closing, or early spring before opening)

ToDo:: Call top 2–3 contractors for site visits; collect quotes
ToDo:: Photograph chip locations + dimensions for accurate bids
ToDo:: Verify license + insurance via nscb.nv.gov before signing
ToDo:: Decide finish type before committing